The Last Supper

It’s a bit past 10 p.m. in Frankfurt, a little past 4 p.m. EST, and we all just finished dinner at The Twelve Apostles. Terrence and Kelsey created mock awards for everyone, including the professors. Makemson received the Engagement Award for checking sports scores on his phone, and Hatcher received the Strudel Man Award for consuming so much of it over the course of three weeks.

Kind words and gentle ribbing were the order of the night, and all of us are torn between wanting to extend our time together vs. getting back to friends and family in the States. All except Audrey, who has declared that she is moving to Frankfurt this week and staying forever. We may have to drag her onto the bus to the airport in the morning.

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A reunion is planned (after the professors assign grades) in a month or so. We will view videos and photos and relive the memories of the last 20 days. Twenty-six travelers are returning as twenty-six friends. Despite the need for professional distance, it’s safe to say that friendship is felt by the professors as well. It’s been a good ride.

Yes, there is a picture of The Last Supper on the wall of The Twelve Apostles restaurant.

Yes, there is a picture of The Last Supper on the wall of The Twelve Apostles restaurant.

We came, we saw, we ate too much.

We came, we saw, we ate too much.

A perfect portrait to end a perfect evening.

A perfect portrait to end a perfect evening.

An imperfect portrait to end a perfect evening. Quinn is drinking water, despite appearances to the contrary. This is what happens when someone says, "Let's do a joke picture!"

An imperfect portrait to end a perfect evening. Quinn is drinking water, despite appearances to the contrary. This is what happens when someone says, “Let’s do a joke picture!”

Thanks to the families who have read these blogs. We have enjoyed the privilege of teaching your bright, fun, & creative kids and look forward to having them in future classes & seeing them around Elon.

H&M

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Our Last Museum

Gutenbergers slept in late Sunday morning, all the way to 9 a.m., a parting gift from the professors before the 6 a.m. wakeup Monday for the return trip home. We all went to the film museum on the banks of the Main River here in Frankfurt. The profs had lunch with old friends who live in Frankfurt, one of whom used to work at Elon, and the students had a free afternoon on their final day abroad.

This is what happens when people run out of clothes at the same time at the end of a three-week Study Abroad.

This is what happens when people run out of clothes at the same time at the end of a three-week Study Abroad.

The Deutsches Filmmuseum in Frankfurt is a movie fan's idea of nirvana. http://deutsches-filminstitut.de/en/filmmuseum/

The Deutsches Filmmuseum in Frankfurt is a movie fan’s idea of nirvana. http://deutsches-filminstitut.de/en/filmmuseum/

Kinetoscopes such as this one allowed students to see movies as they were shown back in the 1890s - one person at a time.

Kinetoscopes such as this one allowed students to see movies as they were shown back in the 1890s – one person at a time.

This was more of a hands-on interactive museum than others we have attended. Prof. Hatcher was reprimanded only once here.

This was more of a hands-on interactive museum than others we have attended. Prof. Hatcher was reprimanded only once here.

This is the stop motion puppet Jack Skellington from Tim Burton's 1993 film "The Nighmare Before Christmas." There were other such original items, including one of the cast models for Darth Vader's helmet.

This is the stop motion puppet Jack Skellington from Tim Burton’s 1993 film “The Nighmare Before Christmas.” There were other such original items, including one of the cast models for Darth Vader’s helmet.

As we found in the British Library, there were musical scores, such as this one for the film "Easy Rider." The original soundtrack album is pictured on the right.

As we found in the British Library, there were musical scores, such as this one for the film “Easy Rider.” The original soundtrack album is pictured on the right.

We encountered green screens at the BBC for giving the weather. The ones here in Frankfurt are more enjoyable and put you into the action of a film projected in front of you. Fun for kids of all ages.

We encountered green screens at the BBC for giving the weather. The ones here in Frankfurt are more enjoyable and put you into the action of a film projected in front of you. Fun for kids of all ages.

Look closely to see the stars of the film, Tori, Patrick, and Sydney.

Look closely to see the stars of the film, Tori, Patrick, and Sydney.

Hatcher and Makemson caught up with Marion Aitcheson, her husband Scott, and daughter Mia. Marion was born in Eisenach in the former East Germany and worked in film and video at Elon for a while.

Hatcher and Makemson caught up with Marion Aitcheson, her husband Scott, and daughter Mia. Marion was born in Eisenach in the former East Germany and worked in film and video at Elon for a while.

OUR LAST NIGHT HERE WILL END WITH THE LAST SUPPER.
There is a restaurant near our hotel called The Twelve Apostles, and the group will dine there in about an hour after I write this. The final blog of the trip may be delayed, but it’s coming. Stay tuned…

Gutenberg and Mainz in the Snow

The way we structure our itinerary, we make it to Mainz at the end of the course, and discuss Johannes Gutenberg and the printing press long after seeing more modern technology. The press is a theme all the way through Gutenberg to the Web, but maybe next year we’ll think about going to cities in a more chronological order.

We had some snow in Mainz today, wet but pretty, and we saw a demonstration of the press in German with an English translation just for us. See the pics below for details…

We took our last trains today on a round trip from Frankfurt to Mainz, a journey of about 40 minutes one way. The students have creative ways of avoiding boredom on train rides. The professors will miss their card games, Harry Potter guessing games, and a cappella concerts that take place during these sojourns. The station pictured here is in Frankfurt. We wish the U.S. had stations like this with food, reading material, food, travel bureaus, food, and frequent trains to everywhere.

We took our last trains today on a round trip from Frankfurt to Mainz, a journey of about 40 minutes one way. The students have creative ways of avoiding boredom on train rides. The professors will miss their card games, Harry Potter guessing games, and a cappella concerts that take place during these sojourns. The station pictured here is in Frankfurt. We wish the U.S. had stations like this with food, reading material, food, travel bureaus, food, and frequent trains to everywhere.

St. Stephan Church in Mainz began with a building in 990. The current church dates from 1340, although WWII damage required the cloister and much of the nave to be completely rebuilt. Russian Jewish artist Marc Chagall befriended Monsignor Klaus Mayer of St. Stephan, and created a series of nine windows for the church. The windows depict scenes from the Old Testament and were intended as a gesture of Jewish-German reconciliation. Chagall, who started the project in 1978 and died in 1985, had fled France under Nazi occupation. Chagall's students and other artists have since added more windows.

St. Stephan Church in Mainz began with a building in 990. The current church dates from 1340, although WWII damage required the cloister and much of the nave to be completely rebuilt. Russian Jewish artist Marc Chagall befriended Monsignor Klaus Mayer of St. Stephan, and created a series of nine windows for the church. The windows depict scenes from the Old Testament and were intended as a gesture of Jewish-German reconciliation. Chagall, who started the project in 1978 and died in 1985, had fled France under Nazi occupation. Chagall’s students and other artists have since added more windows.

Chagall window at St. Stephan.

Chagall window at St. Stephan.

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It's Carnival season in Mainz, which is a bit like Mardi Gras. As a Mainz website put it, "Parties, parades, costumes, brass bands, scathing political and social commentary, scanty outfits, normal citizens are kings and princes, knights and generals, while the pompous and pretentious are ridiculed by 'fools' and Court jesters." We listened to the music a bit, and at least one student grabbed some food on our cold tour of this city on the Rhine.

It’s Carnival season in Mainz, which is a bit like Mardi Gras. As a Mainz website put it, “Parties, parades, costumes, brass bands, scathing political and social commentary, scanty outfits, normal citizens are kings and princes, knights and generals, while the pompous and pretentious are ridiculed by ‘fools’ and Court jesters.” We listened to the music a bit, and at least one student grabbed some food on our cold tour of this city on the Rhine.

These 550-year-old half timber houses, which survived the War intact, were dressed up for Carnival.

These 550-year-old half timber houses, which survived the War intact, were dressed up for Carnival.

The Dom, or large cathedral, was finished around 995. It suffered WWII damage, and is in a constant state of repair.

The Dom, or large cathedral, was finished around 995. It suffered WWII damage, and is in a constant state of repair.

Street vendors selling prepared foods and produce covered the old square during our visit.

Street vendors selling prepared foods and produce covered the old square during our visit.

This small, poignant detail etched in brass is attached to a pillar in the town square. It memorializes Kristallnacht, or the Night of Broken Glass, when Nazis raided Jewish businesses in November 1938.

This small, poignant detail etched in brass is attached to a pillar in the town square. It memorializes Kristallnacht, or the Night of Broken Glass, when Nazis raided Jewish businesses in November 1938.

It began to snow about halfway through our walking tour. Our guide Annalliese was  unfazed.

It began to snow about halfway through our walking tour. Our guide Annalliese was unfazed.

This shot of the snowy market was taken from a warm perch in a French cafe where the professors took refuge for a half hour lunch.

This shot of the snowy market was taken from a warm perch in a French cafe where the professors took refuge for a half hour lunch.

This is the recreated press in the Gutenberg Museum in Mainz. We watched a demonstration of 500-year-old printing techniques.  We also saw three original Gutenberg bibles, the first printed book in the Western world, which was completed in the 1450s. We saw another Gutenberg bible in the British Library in London, bringing our viewing total to four seen out of the 49 that exist on the planet.

This is the recreated press in the Gutenberg Museum in Mainz. We watched a demonstration of 500-year-old printing techniques.
We also saw three original Gutenberg bibles, the first printed book in the Western world, which was completed in the 1450s. We saw another Gutenberg bible in the British Library in London, bringing our viewing total to four seen out of the 49 that exist on the planet.

Gutenbergers made up most of the audience for the press demonstration.

Gutenbergers made up most of the audience for the press demonstration.

The docent who gave the demonstration spoke almost no English. She recruited this kind, if unfortunate, young German visitor from the audience to translate for the Americans. He struggled a bit, but was great and personable.

The docent who gave the demonstration spoke almost no English. She recruited this kind, if unfortunate, young German visitor from the audience to translate for the Americans. He struggled a bit, but was great and personable.

For his troubles, he received this freshly printed page from the bible. He deserved it. We thanked him and the docent, and she printed a second copy on the press just for us. The profs will use it as a demonstration for future classes.

For his troubles, he received this freshly printed page from the bible. He deserved it.
We thanked him and the docent, and she printed a second copy on the press just for us. The profs will use it as a demonstration for future classes.

Gutenberg to the Web students pose with the namesake of our course. These guys are fun, intellectually curious and always have each other's backs. Behind them is the shrine to fast food, the Mainz McDonald's.

Gutenberg to the Web students pose with the namesake of our course. These guys are fun, intellectually curious and always have each other’s backs.
Behind them is the shrine to fast food, the Mainz McDonald’s.

Bits and Bites on the Frankfurt Tour

Rosa, a woman of Austrian descent in her mid-70s, was our energetic guide on the walking tour of Frankfurt Friday morning. She walked fast and seemed tireless. She often had to wait for all of the students to catch up before she continued her talk and her journey. It was obvious she loved Frankfurt, where she has lived for the past 30 years, and she knows its history well.

Rosa was a dynamo and the students loved her.

Rosa was a dynamo and the students loved her.

The Jewish Holocaust Memorial Wall honors the memory of the 12,000 Frankfurt Jewish Citizens who lost their lives during the Holocaust, including Anne, Margot and Edith Frank. The wall surrounds the Jewish Cemetery, and is across the street from the Jewish Museum. Diarist Anne Frank was born in Frankfurt in 1929 and died in the Bergen-Belsen Concentration Camp in 1945.

The Jewish Holocaust Memorial Wall honors the memory of the 12,000 Frankfurt Jewish Citizens who lost their lives during the Holocaust, including Anne, Margot and Edith Frank. The wall surrounds the Jewish Cemetery, and is across the street from the Jewish Museum. Diarist Anne Frank was born in Frankfurt in 1929 and died in the Bergen-Belsen Concentration Camp in 1945.

Anne Frank's name on the Memorial Wall.

Anne Frank’s name on the Memorial Wall.

The Jewish Museum bore this large poster supporting the victims of the Charlie Hebdo massacre in Paris.

The Jewish Museum bore this large poster supporting the victims of the Charlie Hebdo massacre in Paris.

From 1562 to 1792, emperors-elect of the Holy Roman Empire were crowned at Frankfurt Cathedral, dedicated to St. Bartholomew. Rebuilt after an 1867 fire, the church suffered severe interior damage from Allied bombing in WWII and was rebuilt again in the 1950s.

From 1562 to 1792, emperors-elect of the Holy Roman Empire were crowned at Frankfurt Cathedral, dedicated to St. Bartholomew. Rebuilt after an 1867 fire, the church suffered severe interior damage from Allied bombing in WWII and was rebuilt again in the 1950s.

Crucifixion scene at the rear of the sanctuary.

Crucifixion scene at the rear of the sanctuary.

This photo of nuns rested atop a collection box at the entrance to the church.

This photo of nuns rested atop a collection box at the entrance to the church.

Frankfurt was devastated by bombing in WWII and many of the ancient half-timber buildings were destroyed. Most of these buildings on the square are reconstructions.

Frankfurt was devastated by bombing in WWII and many of the ancient half-timber buildings were destroyed. Most of these buildings on the square are reconstructions.

The old town hall is authentic, and survived the War. Note the skyscraper behind it. Frankfurt is the home of the European Central Bank and is a cosmopolitan city of 700,000.

The old town hall is authentic, and survived the War. Note the skyscraper behind it. Frankfurt is the home of the European Central Bank and is a cosmopolitan city of 700,000.

This memorial marks one of the many book burnings conducted by the Nazis.

This memorial marks one of the many book burnings conducted by the Nazis.

A group shot of Gutenbergers on the famous Eiserner Steg Bridge that crosses the Main River in the heart of Frankfurt.

A group shot of Gutenbergers on the famous Eiserner Steg Bridge that crosses the Main River in the heart of Frankfurt.

Thousands of locks decorate the bridge. Couples leave a lock and throw the key into the river to seal their love. There is a thriving lock and engraving business near the entrance to the bridge.

Thousands of locks decorate the bridge. Couples leave a lock and throw the key into the river to seal their love. There is a thriving lock and engraving business near the entrance to the bridge.

The house of the poet Goethe, Germany's Shakespeare.

The house of the poet Goethe, Germany’s Shakespeare.

At the professors' insistence, the tour ended at lunchtime at the Kleinmarkthalle, or little food market hall. Dating to the 1890s, it is filled with food stands and restaurants. No one seemed to mind.

At the professors’ insistence, the tour ended at lunchtime at the Kleinmarkthalle, or little food market hall. Dating to the 1890s, it is filled with food stands and restaurants. No one seemed to mind.

This creature was roaming the hall, apparently part of a film project.

This creature was roaming the hall, apparently part of a film project.

Sweets were available beside the vegetables, fish, pasta, cheeses, breads…

Sweets were available beside the vegetables, fish, pasta, cheeses, breads…

Students fanned out across the vendors and no one went hungry.

Students fanned out across the vendors and no one went hungry.

The afternoon was spend in a communications museum, where the professors obsessed over this 1960s art deco television/tape recorder/radio/turntable. Prof. Hatcher, as is often the case in museums, was mildly reprimanded for touching it.

The afternoon was spend in a communications museum, where the professors obsessed over this 1960s art deco television/tape recorder/radio/turntable. Prof. Hatcher, as is often the case in museums, was mildly reprimanded for touching it.

When did computers qualify as antiques?

When did computers qualify as antiques?

Rotary dial telephones that fascinated the kids made the profs feel like antiques.

Rotary dial telephones that fascinated the kids made the profs feel like antiques.

Brett enjoys art dedicated to the art of letter writing.

Brett enjoys art dedicated to the art of letter writing.

Cell phones of the Mesozoic Era.

Cell phones of the Mesozoic Era.

Sheep with phones for  heads and cords for bodies. There's a deep message there.

Sheep with phones for heads and cords for bodies. There’s a deep message there.

Olympic Tragedy in Munich, Arrival in Frankfurt

It’s late Thursday afternoon as I write this, and we are in Frankfurt, our last hotel location before heading home. There will be more from this city after our walking tour and museum visits, but for now a few shots and comments about our departure from Nuremberg and our arrival here.

Below the Frankfurt pics is a longer entry about our day in Munich on Wednesday.

This is what we look like in every train station: a massive platoon with lots of luggage. Dunkin' Donuts became our rendezvous spot in Nuremberg.

This is what we look like in every train station: a massive platoon with lots of luggage. Dunkin’ Donuts became our rendezvous spot in Nuremberg.

This is what we look like in every hotel lobby: a massive platoon with lots of luggage. This is our arrival in Frankfurt.

This is what we look like in every hotel lobby: a massive platoon with lots of luggage. This is our arrival in Frankfurt.

The professors had warned the students about two things: It was gonna get cold, and make sure you can carry your luggage up flights of steps if necessary. Today, both things occurred. In Nuremberg, students had to drag their suitcases up a flight of concrete steps to the train platform. Then they had to jump up on the train with their bags, pull them down the narrow aisle, and lift them into overhead bins, all in 32 degree weather. There are some German commuters who are no doubt nursing bruises this evening from being whacked repeatedly by a conga line of Gutenbergers trying to get to their seats.

Cold as it was in Frankfurt when we arrived, the professors ate at a nearby outdoor market full of bratwurst, desserts, and other delectables. We had the best bratwurst ever in a frigid little food tent. As you can see by the pic below, you could buy fruit, vegetables, meat, and apparently, animal pelts.

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OUR DAY IN MUNICH

Munich was filled with lows and highs. We visited the Park built for the 1972 Olympics. Tragedy struck that year’s summer Olympics when eleven Israeli Olympic team members were kidnapped and killed, along with a German policeman, by Palestinian terrorist group Black September. The communications angle on this visit was ABC Sportscaster Jim McKay’s amazing marathon reporting of the event as it unfolded on live television. The Olympics were suspended, then resumed, and U.S. swimmer Mark Spitz won seven Gold Medals, holding the record until 2008 when Michael Phelps won eight medals.

After a brief tour of the park and a fast elevator ride to the top of a TV tower at Olympiapark, we walked across a pedestrian bridge to the BMW headquarters and factory, ate at the snack bar, and daydreamed about which auto(s) we wanted to take home with us. A group of students also toured the BMW museum located in an adjacent building.

This iconic photo shows one of the Palestinian terrorists on the balcony of Building 31 in the Olympic Village in 1972.

This iconic photo shows one of the Palestinian terrorists on the balcony of Building 31 in the Olympic Village in 1972.

Building 31 today. The Olympic Village still stands across a wide and busy highway from the Park. The apartments are now occupied by renters and students.

Building 31 today. The Olympic Village still stands across a wide and busy highway from the Park. The apartments are now occupied by renters and students.

Kat and Audrey researched the Olympic tragedy prior to leaving Elon. Here, they explain events of 1972 to the class in front of a memorial placed at the apartment building a few years ago.

Kat and Audrey researched the Olympic tragedy prior to leaving Elon. Here, they explain events of 1972 to the class in front of a memorial placed at the apartment building a few years ago.

The class listened intently in the cold about the kidnapping of the Israeli athletes.

The class listened intently in the cold about the kidnapping of the Israeli athletes.

This is a shot of the TV tower from the Olympic Village.

This is a shot of the TV tower from the Olympic Village.

This is a shot of the Olympic Village from the TV tower.

This is a shot of the Olympic Village from the TV tower.

This is the soccer field and stadium used at the '72 Olympics.

This is the soccer field and stadium used at the ’72 Olympics.

BMW from atop the tower.

BMW from atop the tower.

For some reason, there is a rock and roll museum with odd bits of memorabilia at the top of the Olympic TV tower. This is a guitar once owned by Frank Zappa.

For some reason, there is a rock and roll museum with odd bits of memorabilia at the top of the Olympic TV tower. This is a guitar once owned by Frank Zappa.

Tim played The Beatles' "I Am the Walrus" on the vintage Wurlitzer juke box, located next to a mirrored piano once played by Elton John. Tim has good taste in music.

Tim played The Beatles’ “I Am the Walrus” on the vintage Wurlitzer juke box, located next to a mirrored piano once played by Elton John. Tim has good taste in music.

Kat channels models at car shows as she describes the sleek lines of a BMW.

Kat channels models at car shows as she describes the sleek lines of a BMW.

Terrence, Jordan, Johnny, and Katie look very happy in this new Mini.

Terrence, Jordan, Johnny, and Katie look very happy in this new Mini.

We loved the swivel cocoon chairs, as Quinn illustrates here.

We loved the swivel cocoon chairs, as Quinn illustrates here.

Chelsea has to lean forward to be seen. These were really great chairs.

Chelsea has to lean forward to be seen. These were really great chairs.

The professors pose as Bond villains accompanied by Chelsea, Patrick, and Jordyn.

The professors pose as Bond villains accompanied by Chelsea, Patrick, and Jordyn.

Munich is a cool city. Here, classical musicians play in Marienplatz. Their CDs were on sale at the red table in front, and they drew a large crowd.

Munich is a cool city. Here, classical musicians play in Marienplatz. Their CDs were on sale at the red table in front, and they drew a large crowd.

The New Town Hall was completed in 1908.

The New Town Hall was completed in 1908.

The students noticed early on that Profs. Hatcher and Makemson had the same initials as a certain discount clothing chain.

The students noticed early on that Profs. Hatcher and Makemson had the same initials as a certain discount clothing chain.

Dachau

Dachau is a city in Germany with a former concentration camp in it. The Nazis called their camps by the name of the municipality in which it resided.

Dachau is a suburb of Munich, where in a beer hall in the 1930s Adolf Hitler and his minions planned their political party. The camp opened in March 1933, two months after Hitler became chancellor of Germany. It was a concentration camp, a work camp, a death camp, a training camp, and the template for all the camps to follow. There were 34 barracks for prisoners, each built to house around 250, but by the end of the war squeezed nearly 1,000 starving men into each one. The barracks were torn down in the 1960s, but recreations have been built.

Some buildings are genuine. There is a gas chamber disguised as a shower room, and there are crematoriums, brick ovens for incinerating the dead. The earliest of these was built in 1940, but as the camp expanded, so did the number of ovens.

We toured the camp on the coldest, dampest day we have experienced thus far, which is appropriate for such a place. One shouldn’t see Dachau wearing cutoffs and flip flops. The first occupants of this place were Germans, consisting of Hitler’s political opponents, trade unionists, opposition journalists, and others. After the war began, homosexuals, Jehovah’s Witnesses, Jews and prisoners of war joined them. It became a majority Jewish camp after Kristallnacht in November 1938.

Dachau concentration camp stayed open the longest of any, from 1933-1945. Two hundred thousand men passed through the camp and 43,000 died, relatively small compared to the more than 1 million who died at Auschwitz. When American troops reached the camp in April 1945, most of the guards had fled, leaving 30,000 prisoners behind.

This was the only way into and out of the camp.

This was the only way into and out of the camp.

The original iron gate at the entrance had been in place from 1933 until November 2014 when it was stolen. The gate read "Arbeit macht frei," loosely translated as "Work will make you free."

The original iron gate at the entrance had been in place from 1933 until November 2014 when it was stolen. The gate read “Arbeit macht frei,” loosely translated as “Work will make you free.”

The foundations of the original barracks line either side of a gravel walkway leading to the rear of the camp. The camp was named a memorial site in 1965.

The foundations of the original barracks line either side of a gravel walkway leading to the rear of the camp. The camp was named a memorial site in 1965.

Exterior of the larger crematorium.

Exterior of the larger crematorium.

Period photograph of bodies piled outside the crematorium in the 1940s.

Period photograph of bodies piled outside the crematorium in the 1940s.

Interior of the gas chamber disguised as a shower.

Interior of the gas chamber disguised as a shower.

The ovens at Dachau. There were not mass killings in the gas chamber here, but many were executed by firing squad, and many more died from disease and starvation. Medical experiments were also performed on some prisoners, and some did not survive the experiments.

The ovens at Dachau. There were not mass killings in the gas chamber here, but many were executed by firing squad, and many more died from disease and starvation. Medical experiments were also performed on some prisoners, and some did not survive the experiments.

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Gutenbergers Let it Go at Karaoke

There’s a new choral group coming to Elon University: The Gutenberg Karaoke Choir. In the photo below, the choir is seen on tour in Nuremberg, Germany, belting out “Let it Go.”

Gutenbergers sing "Let it Go" at a Nuremberg karaoke bar with passion. Go big or go home, that's our motto.

Gutenbergers sing “Let it Go” at a Nuremberg karaoke bar with passion. Go big or go home, that’s our motto.